There are times in life when you know you're 100% going in the right direction.
Before the 2015 Mega Swell Kicked, fun as Supers with Jesse and Derm presiding proceedings
Sitting behind Derm Forde's old Troopy heading to the Far North on State Highway 1, 29 June 2015, was one of those moments. Sighting Derm was instant validation the decision to pre-empt the Mega Swell was right.
In 2015 it was still cool to camp around the reef at Shippies. I found my spot, Derm and his son Finn were 50 metres west, perched above the Supertubes take off peak. The swell had yet to kick, I crowed to Derm how stoked I was he was there, how I'd seen his iconic Troopy and how much I loved it. He gave me a Troopy tour.
Then the next morning
Despite not seeing each other for years, his conversation was, as always, like we spoke yesterday. This was the last time I'd ever have one of those chats.
Derm moved to Otago. I bought a Troopy almost identical to Derm's... VERY much influenced by Derm. The consummate surfer with the ultimate surf wagon. I actually worried that people would confuse us...not the surfing bit, the vehicle bit. That people would think I was copying the legend, I was after-all. Let's go with heavily influenced and obliged the sage-like advice.
Like anyone who has frequented Mud Bay in the last 50 years, a Derm encounter was inevitable. It usually starts with sighting a tiny dot 100 metres out from Shag Rock on a huge unsurfable West Coast day. A Derm day. My first brush was 1986, and that was the case. My good mate Crighton Bone both watched from the carpark in shock. That someone A] Even got out there, like seriously HOW. B] What did they think they were going to find out there. C] Just generally WHY.
Derm at Aramoana and to the right with Shaper and all round good bugger Steve Walker.... both images stolen from the gram... right Maori Bay Boardriders and left GHS Designs
The speck came in and up to the lonely carpark, his trusty 7'6 Col McNeill shaped Hurley under arm. We got chatting, the first of many, him explaning it was just like big Sunset [Hawaii]. You have to let the first one wash through, and the rest of the set will be cleaner. Even as competent, but still somewhat bug-eyed teens, Derm's rationale didn't hold much water. But it certainly enforced our mana for the charger.
I used writing this as an excuse to ring my old mate Mikey Phillips, Derm's old Muriwai neighbour. A fact check, but also to connect with a mate. He recanted how influential Derm had been on his surfing, long before they were neighbours. How Derm had paved the way for Mikey to charge the big. How Derm's infectious froth lead them to tackling huge Bay. Of the duo paddling out South of Shag Rock and coming in up by the creek at Muriwai. Hooting and hollering the entire sessions.
When and if you dig deeper on the socials for the outpouring of respect and loss of Derm, this is the theme. The charger that frothed on challenging himself to the wild. That loved a good carpark chat, that engaged so warmly with everyone. Nurse, Soldier, Cop, Hunter, Hell Mountain Biker, an actual deadset surfing legend. Derm aged just 63, passed at home from a heart attack 17 October. His funeral is today in Dunedin.
Hei Konei Ra -Legend, you lived a 100 mortals' lives.