Thank you for all the positive feedback about the last few posts and the big South trip those were about. From the outset the 3 weeks South was about exploring and even overlanding a bit, any surf was a bonus. There was an expectation that there would still be more surfing, more swimming out with the water housing and camera. But, I think, when a roady isn't a surf trip, especially in NZ, surfing gets hard to fit in. I came back from the South, stoked about the surfs had, but extra amped to surf and swim with the camera.
It's been a challenging summer and autumn for waves anyway. The west coast of Auckland has had it's moments but it has not been one of those summers where there are banks up and down the beaches- regular go to's. This day was a good day. Almost too big for the coast, but one in every set would have form. These are my favourite swims. The days of wanting to swim out in 10 foot are probably past. But there's kind of a loathing of small paper thin lipped wave studies.
As the act of surfing is therapy so is swimming. Ducking and diving clean up sets, repositioning to be in the impact zone...being NEAR harm's way. The fun of the calculation, getting it wrong and sometimes getting it right. The swirl of invigorating negative ions, even a little dose of adrenaline. Of being in the moment.
Perhaps this is way too introspective for a hump day web log... maybe all that should be written is 'Went for a swim, it was pretty solid, had fun here's the results.
....And In Other News
Red Bull have released free for view their epic production Kehu Butler: Made in Aotearoa. Allocate 36 minutes, it's so worth it. This is the best short surf film to be made in NZ in a very long time. The link is HERE
From The Elements Gallery
Here's a massive pano that I love, love so much it's now loaded into the Elements Gallery for you to view and perhaps get printed! It's from the Putangirua Pinnacles, Cape Palliser . You can check it out better HERE