I went to Teahupo'o, Tahiti last month. It cost a lot of money, there was no way on paper it would EVER make financial sense to go. But when do you ever get the chance to hang out with two Olympians [as it turned out, three]. To document them honing their skills at one of the heaviest and most beautiful waves in the world.
I don't want to come across as a noter or name dropper. [That horse has already bolted aye.] I'm not sure if the invitation was extended or I bulldozed my way in. Over-powering anything else with enthusiasm to be the Number 1 groupie and cheer squad for Saffi Vette and Billy Stairmand. It fell into place ridiculously simply. Flights were available, accomodation at the same place as the Olympians was available. I kind of had to go.
Saffi and Bill had funding from Air'b'n'b for their accomodation. The rest of their 2 week stay at Teahupoo was 100% self funded. Both surfers knowing the only way to do well at the thunderous reef ledge is familiarity. They paid local legend and coach Tereva David to mentor them. And that's where the third Olympian came in. Japan's child prodigy, Shino Matsuda joined Saff and Bill for the coaching.
While it may seem odd to have a co-competitor, a rival country team-member, this is surfing. We do shit different. In fact Tereva is a Team Tahiti coach, in El Salvador at the ISA Juniors currently. Shino was most certainly a welcome a valued member of the training squad assembled. She's a charger and wise beyond her years.
The days were gloriously simple. Up at first light, in the boat and out in the channel early. They surf, I shoot, either from Tereva's boat or in the water. Back in for lunch and video analysis with Tereva, rest then repeat till dark. The perfect day.
Listening to Tereva's breakdown of every wave, every body movement was enlightening. EVERY ripple in the lip line identified how or not it's a chip shot to a deeper barrel. The coaching is not how to make it to the end, that's assumed, the coaching is how to maximise time behind the thick lip. How to potentialise every point on every wave. Saffi and Billy...and Shino soak it all in. It is of note just how quickly they adapt their lines, their hand placement, their weight shifts. Reaffirmation of how elite athletes are hungry to evolve in their chosen discipline.
The detailed interview for Surfline is HERE
I had my own goal, to photograph Teahupoo from the water everyday, push my own boundaries on the reef. As it turned out the swell stayed well within my comfort zone.
It has been a while between drinks. 20 years, since I'd been there for a NZ Billabong photoshoot. I was struck by how little it had changed. As my short trip rushed by I realised the changes were subtle, but marked. 2 decades ago there where very few resident surfers. The End Of The Road has become an enclave of the world's most chargingest surfers... and their young families. Their children are surfing and surfing great.
I came back completely enamoured with The End of The Road. I wanna go back. Maybe after all this Olympic hubbub is done and dusted, maybe before?
FROM THE GALLERIES
This guy is actually my screensaver currently, you don't need to know that, wouldn't expect you to want it on the merit that the photographer loves it so much he chooses to see it everyday. The reason it's my screensaver is 100% emotional, sure it's a technically well taken photo, but it's the feelings and memories it evokes, an epic swell and surf trip, a reminder to return to a favourite stretch of sand. That's why clients buy photos, not because the photographer was a technical master, it's because they have a connection to the subject. I like that, kind of makes my job harder, but it's the right kind of challenge. Course, you really should be looking through the Photo CPL Galleries now, you can do that HERE