Gidday! And before we get into this too much further, as a disclaimer, this was firmly a surf trip not a photo trip. So the images here aren't the most composed, shot at the best time. We were surfing then.
I'd promised Will Bailey's eldest son Maddox a surf trip, a lad's trip years ago. I knew it would happen, but life does get in the way. The promise was made a long time ago, from Maddox's point of view nearly half a lifetime ago. I really think he thought it had become a 'Yeah right' thing. He's 15, this chat had been going on since he was 10. Will made the call; he was off work, Maddy was on school holidays, the swell was predicted to be big. That's resounding YES from me, let's go!
Normally I side step swell events like last week's. It was clear the current would be hideous, the crowd would be similar. But this was about fulfilling a promise...and why not. It's summer, it'll be an adventure. We had so much fun. It's so easy to get jaded, sit back and pick holes in the weather report and find reasons not to go.
It was crowded, the snakes and drop ins were rampant, but in amongst it all were good rides, long rides, catch ups with old mates. Moments of pumping-ness shared with new mates. Goodtimes!
Days drenched in surfing, in talking surf, living surf. Camping...well glamping in the Troopy.