They do happen, of course the claim is highly subjective. Actually a lot went wrong this perfect day, boards were snapped, I had my flippers ripped off getting caught by a set wave. Got cramped up and sent in earlier than I wanted. On the drive home, had the shittest Macca’s ever and then got detoured through South Auckland because of road works in the One. It was still a perfect day.
perfection
Napes cajoled me into going, I’d thought about it earlier in the week but had largely let the weight of mundanity eat away my froth… in english… the to-do chore list was at the forefront of my thinking. I felt so stink when Napes rang, I started on the negatives; ‘no, don’t wanna go, can’t surf, shoulder is sore, back is sore, too much to do bro. ‘
wow, imagine if someone was sitting in one like that! Or even a bigger hollower one perhaps?
Summon the PMA Ceeps [that’s my internal voice] I text him back within 5, ‘Fuck yeah bro- let’s do this! And actually I still owe you surf trip, so this one’s on me.’ But I had no idea it would be like this.
Napes likes this one best… but
I like this one more… that said …
the lip line in this one?
Napes had a plan that we stuck to, cruise to the beach for just after high tide, noon, make ready and surf/shoot till dark- drive home, get bad food at the Bombays. The perfect plan.
Good to see grom Manu Roberts charging on the 2nd of three long sessions
A known solder charging, just not known by me, any clue?
Campbell McKegg is there any surfer on the planet with a more appropriate name!
Rungi Ormand on a warm up run… just you wait.
Jeff King’s double spitter
what’s your call- 6 foot? Napes again.
Matt Land whipped Klee Drumond into this bomb…and there is a sequence of him making it.
New dad, Sean Peggs between bottles
Sam McCraw on one of his many many waves of the day
Rungi Ormand and the wave that got a standing ovation from the bleachers
Rungi’s nephew Kanaiya came over from Northern NSW for the holidays, clearly worth it!
It wasn’t all barrels… well it was really, Matt Hishon defying the rules
Yes that is Bevan Wiig again … rounding out hour 6 in the water
Tom Carter on the most perfect thick evening nugget
Matt Hansen and the last wave I could shoot in the fading light.
There are so many more images I could post here, the cards were filled with 1645 frames over the day. Some have gone on to Surfline, I’ve tried to mix up the selection a bit from that edit.
And Deeeen……
In not so shock horror news, the shipment of NZ Surf Windows is sitting off Browns Bay, the vessel missed its scheduled berth, can I say Berthday??? I am. This has the expected knock on effect. It now is a casual berth, fit it in when the Ports of Auckwack can. And we did so well making all our deadlines! Anyway, in the publishing world this is commonly known as ‘We’re F&cked’. Warren and I had already canned the proposed dates for the book launches. It does mean the Pre Sales deal, which has already exceeded expectations, has been extended. You can view more of the book and secure your copy HERE