Saturday morning Billabong Oceanbridge Grom Series 2022
40 years ago I went to my first NZ surf comp, it was at Manu Bay, it wasn't a fun time. I was a very self conscious 14 year old in general, and not at all confident in my surfing ability. I was very aware of my lack of talent and prowess.
Surf Photographers’ dream of days like this!
My good mate Ste'en Webster had seconded his work car. He worked at Marx Surfshop, our then local surf hang. It was a brand new Subaru Leone 4WD station wagon, it was the newest car I'd ever been in. It was emblazoned on both sides with the Marx Surf logo- it looked super cool. We were unwittingly involved in a bit of gorilla marketing. Mark Bud 'lent' the wagon to the shop grommet [Ste'en] to drop something at the contest site. In turn Ste'en had filled the car with his mates [I can't remember who else was in the car.]
so, so clear, 0% humidity and mist to shoot through
As was always the way, Ste'en had us hurtling down the southern motorway at 4 am. Ste'en's idea of a dawny was, and is, to be in the water before dawn. It was still dark when we got to Whale Bay, but through the dank cold Indy's was pumping, solid 6 foot. I thought it was a lot bigger. Ratso and Jeanie Shanks were out, and they were both ripping. That was a highlight of this mission, paddling over an Indy's shoulder and watching Rat drive off the bottom and then snap tight in the pocket, pelting me with spray. It was hands down the best surfing I'd witnessed and the first time I'd seen a dude from a surf mag. I was totally star struck.
Looks pretty good aye! Sunday morning with a mellow 30km/h offshore…things were about to get hectic
After the surf we loaded our boards back on the roof of the Subaru. Without a second thought, piled in to drop off this 'thing' Ste'en had at Manu Bay. The Bay carpark was full, the road was packed with the who's who of NZ Surfing. At that split second of us starting to drive through the crowd I had one of those moments of clarity. 'Oh fuck, we're in a brand new, stickered wagon, with boards piled high on the racks...we look like wannabe pros.' Sure enough the jeers started...'What have we here aye! Team Marx Surf Shop! Check these gremmies out.' I remember my face hot flushing, and begging Ste'en to drive faster. He couldn't, we were deep into the crowd now, the only way was snail pace forward to the judge's tent. Everyone was leering in the windows to see who was in the car...and it was only us, some try hards. To this day I could show the spot the car was at a stand still in the crowd.
As I write that, it doesn't read that gnarly. But for a shy teenager it felt like the height of faux-pars. I can remember the exit was equally as embarrassing. I don't think we stayed around to watch a single heat.
Here comes the 130-150 km/h’s !!!!
You'd think that would be enough to never ever want to visit a contest site ever again. On the flip side, not soon after I watched Richard Langdon beat Derek Hynd in a nail biting final on the Bar at Piha. It was an epic tussle of blow for blow exchanges.
I got involved in the contest machine. For 15 years I was tasked to attend and shoot every event on the Surfing NZ calendar. You can't go to EVERY one, but there where very few missed over those years with the magazine.
After that 15 years of being at the magazine you'd think I'd be done. I landed the photography contract of the Hyundai Longboard Tour that included the Nationals for 6 more years. On top of that I got the ISA World Juniors, then most of the comps at Piha.
This is Groms, Womens, Open, Regionals, Longboarding and some internationals in Aussie, Tonga and Hawaii over a now 30 year span. Some years I've counted 15 minimum, so let's average it out at 8 per annum. That's 240...let's swipe off 40 and go for 'at least 200 comps'. Been to a lot of comps aye.
Mellow, those chops and ribs aren’t too bad right?
Why do I still jump at the chance to be involved? Why would I drive away from perfect surf to stand in the rain and on-shore?
Friends.
Ben and Gina Kennings, the Ria family; Steve, Kris, Phagan and Gilli, Lee Ryan, Nudge, yes even you Gav, Ratso, Trev and Jennie Metcalfe, Jan and Col, George! GT, Filthy Phil, Keg, Bansky, Ritchie, Rusty, Roxy, Hawky, Jay PH and Gabi [aka the new Col and Jan] , Caleb, Dan Westie, Jama .... the point is, even although these soldiers in the trenches watch us photographers swan in late and leave early. Note our lack of doing any of the heavy lifting, it's an evolving team and family. If I've done 200, then BK and Steve Ria have done 400 each.
We've endured helicopter parents and Karens. We've watched competitors come and go, now we see their children compete... oh wait.. yep, grand children. It's an honour.
Over the weekend I got to be the shooter for the Billabong/Oceanbridge Grom Series Whangamata. Both Billabong and Oceanbridge have supported grom development in NZ for 17 years so far. I was at the first Billabong/Oceanbridge, as were BK and Steve. Last weekend Cyclone Dovi bore down on us, Saturday was onshore and raining, Sunday was 150km/h offshores.
Piha’s Bill Byers, 3rd generation surfer and last weekend’s U18 Boy’s Champion
I didn't love every minute of it. I didn't get masterful images. It was bread and butter, grind it out stuff. Get the shots, get diversity, get the delivery done. Give the media officer the stuff they need. I do love that. I do love that you witness the up and comers. You see friendships forming and rivalries developing. Catch ups with long time friends.
The next Billabong/ Oceanbridge Grom Comp, the finale in fact, is in two weeks time at Piha. I'll be there in an offical role. Frothing to still be a part of the machine.
SNZ's press release is HERE for Sunday's surfing
and HERE for Saturday's surfing
And the Facebook photo gallery of the weekend past are HERE
...AND Deeeeen....
Up featuring on Recreational Society right now are Emma, Dave and Molly. Check it out it's a really good feature about a couple LOVING exploring NZ..
From The Book Shop
Oh yes you good thing! Over 2/3 of the print run are sold. To be really honest that's about right for a book project; sell that 66% in the first 1/4 and then the remaining 33% will go over the next 12 months. So its a proven seller I guess right??? Anyway, wanna pick it up and not pay for P&P...well you can HERE